TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's CO Detection!

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's CO Detection!: Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors                                                                                                  ...

The Bottom Line's CO Detection!

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors

                                                                                                                    

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas that forms from incomplete combustion of fuels, such as natural or liquefied petroleum gas, oil, wood or coal.

Facts and Figures

• 480 U.S. residents died between 2001 and 2003 from non-fire-related carbon-monoxide poisoning.
• Most CO exposures occur during the winter months, especially in December (including 56 deaths, and 2,157 non-fatal exposures), and in January (including 69 deaths and 2,511 non-fatal exposures). The peak time of day for CO exposure is between 6 and 10 p.m.
• Many experts believe that CO poisoning statistics understate the problem. Because the symptoms of CO poisoning mimic a range of common health ailments, it is likely that a large number of mild to mid-level exposures are never identified, diagnosed, or accounted for in any way in carbon monoxide statistics.
• Out of all reported non-fire carbon-monoxide incidents, 89% or almost nine out of 10 of them take place in a home.

Physiology of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

When CO is inhaled, it displaces the oxygen that would ordinarily bind with hemoglobin, a process that effectively suffocates the body. CO can poison slowly over a period of several hours, even in low concentrations. Sensitive organs, such as the brain, heart and lungs, suffer the most from a lack of oxygen.

High concentrations of carbon monoxide can kill in less than five minutes. At low concentrations, it will require a longer period of time to affect the body. Exceeding the EPA concentration of 9 parts per million (ppm) for more than eight hours may have adverse health affects. The limit of CO exposure for healthy workers, as prescribed by the U.S. Occupational Health and Safety Administration, is 50 ppm.

Potential Sources of Carbon Monoxide

Any fuel-burning appliances which are malfunctioning or improperly installed can be a source of CO, such as:

• furnaces;
• stoves and ovens;
• water heaters;
• dryers; 
• room and space heaters; 
• fireplaces and wood stoves;
• charcoal grills;
• automobiles;
• clogged chimneys or flues;
• space heaters;
• power tools that run on fuel;
• gas and charcoal grills;
• certain types of swimming pool heaters; and 
• boat engines.

PPM	% CO  in air	Health Effects in Healthy Adults	Source/Comments
0	0%	no effects; this is the normal level in a properly operating heating appliance
35	0.0035%	maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift	The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH)
50	0.005%	maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift	OSHA
100	0.01%	slight headache, fatigue, shortness of breath,  errors in judgment
125	0.0125%		workplace alarm must sound (OSHA)
200	0.02%	headache, fatigue,  nausea, dizziness
400	0.04%	severe headache, fatigue, nausea, dizziness, confusion; can be life-threatening after three hours of exposure	evacuate area immediately
800	0.08%	convulsions, loss of consciousness; death within three hours	evacuate area immediately
12,000	1.2%	nearly instant death

CO Detector Placement

CO detectors can monitor exposure levels, but do not place them:

• directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up;
• within 15 feet of heating and cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms;
• within 5 feet of kitchen stoves and ovens, or near areas locations where household chemicals and bleach are stored (store such chemicals away from bathrooms and kitchens, whenever possible);
• in garages, kitchens, furnace rooms, or in any extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas;
• in direct sunlight, or in areas subjected to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawlspaces, unfinished attics, un-insulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches;
• in turbulent air near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh-air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the CO sensors.

Do place CO detectors:

• within 10 feet of each bedroom door and near all sleeping areas, where it can wake sleepers. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) recommend that every home have at least one carbon monoxide detector for each floor of the home, and within hearing range of each sleeping area;
• on every floor of your home, including the basement (source:  International Association of Fire Chiefs/IAFC);
• near or over any attached garage. Carbon monoxide detectors are affected by excessive humidity and by close proximity to gas stoves (source:  City of New York);
• near, but not directly above, combustion appliances, such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces, and in the garage (source:  UL); and
• on the ceiling in the same room as permanently installed fuel-burning appliances, and centrally located on every habitable level, and in every HVAC zone of the building (source:  National Fire Protection Association 720). This rule applies to commercial buildings.

In North America, some national, state and local municipalities require installation of CO detectors in new and existing homes, as well as commercial businesses, among them:  Illinois, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Jersey, Vermont and New York City, and the Canadian province of Ontario. Installers are encouraged to check with their local municipality to determine what specific requirements have been enacted in their jurisdiction.

How can I prevent CO poisoning?

• Purchase and install carbon monoxide detectors with labels showing that they meet the requirements of the new UL standard 2034 or Comprehensive Safety Analysis 6.19 safety standards.
• Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Have the heating system professionally inspected by The Bottom Line inspector and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
• Never service fuel-burning appliances without the proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owner's manual when performing minor adjustments and when servicing fuel-burning equipment.
• Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space, such as a garage, house or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
• Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
• Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent.
• Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
• Never use gas appliances, such as ranges, ovens or clothes dryers to heat your home.
• Never operate un-vented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
• During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.
• Do not place generators in the garage or close to the home. People lose power in their homes and get so excited about using their gas-powered generator that they don't pay attention to where it is placed. The owner's manual should explain how far the generator should be from the home.
• Clean the chimney. Open the hatch at the bottom of the chimney to remove the ashes.  Hire a chimney sweep annually.
• Check vents. Regularly inspect your home's external vents to ensure they are not obscured by debris, dirt or snow.

In summary, carbon monoxide is a dangerous poison that can be created by various household appliances. CO detectors must be placed strategically throughout the home or business in order to alert occupants of high levels of the gas.

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Foreclosure Inspections!

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Foreclosure Inspections!: Foreclosure Inspections: Trust Your Gut So, you want to buy a house cheap, and you look to the foreclosure market. Considering the ove...

The Bottom Line's Foreclosure Inspections!

Foreclosure Inspections: Trust Your Gut

So, you want to buy a house cheap, and you look to the foreclosure market. Considering the over-abundance of these properties and just how little many of them are going for, it’s tempting to jump on the bandwagon and buy up. And it may pay off as a long-term investment.  But, like any other major purchase, you should know as much as you can about a property before you buy it, which is why home inspections, performed by The Bottom Line inspectors, are necessary.

 

Unfortunately, many real estate agents, who don’t like bargaining with banks, are advising clients that home inspections are of no value as a bargaining tool, since banks don’t negotiate on “as is” properties. As an added disincentive, banks selling properties “as is” have no legal responsibility for any lurking defects. While the agent's advice to forgo an inspection as a means to negotiate on the price may be logical, it is startlingly counter-intuitive, and possibly even negligent. Would you buy a car without knowing whether it has a transmission?  The same premise holds true for a house, regardless of whether you intend to live in it, or fix it and flip it. The Realtor may be trying to salvage a deal that could possibly be scrapped if an inspector uncovers damage that the bank is unwilling to pay for, and you, as the buyer, have to realize that the agent's advice is not in your best interest. In this case, they’re putting you at risk in order to ensure they get their commission.

 

Any Realtor advising against an inspection on a foreclosure (or neglecting to recommend that one be performed) is ignoring the likelihood that, long before the previous owners stopped making mortgage payments, they deferred required maintenance tasks. Moisture intrusion leading to leaks and mold are just a few of the major problems commonly found by inspectors in foreclosed properties.  Tales abound of bizarre discoveries in abandoned properties, from wild boars to colossal bees nests. Former owners may loot their own properties, taking with them anything they can pry up or unscrew, and leave behind trash and junk that you have to pay for to have removed.

There are also stories of foreclosed properties that have been intentionally vandalized by their former owners in acts of retaliation against their banks. In one infamous case in early 2010, an Ohioan bulldozed his $250,000 home after the IRS placed liens on his carpet store, and then threatened to take his house. The damage done by the owner was apparent, but there are probably less extreme situations where the damage isn’t as obvious, making a home inspection of utmost priority.

 

You should always get a home inspection before buying a property, especially when you’re buying a bank-owned foreclosure.  In such cases, it may be impossible to find out how well the home was cared for, or whether major damage was done right before the past owners left the property. Ask the bank how much time you have after your initial offer to have an inspection performed, and schedule one immediately. If it goes well, you’ll enter into the deal with peace of mind and a better idea of what repairs you’ll have to deal with. That alone is worth the price of an inspection. If the inspection reveals a costly disaster, you can back out of the deal and save tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars.

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TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line Points Out Depreciation of Investm...

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line Points Out Depreciation of Investm...: Depreciation of Investment Property One of the largest tax breaks for owners of investment property comes in the form of depreciation,...

The Bottom Line Points Out Depreciation of Investment Property!

Depreciation of Investment Property

One of the largest tax breaks for owners of investment property comes in the form of depreciation, or the loss in value of a property over time due to physical deterioration.  The U.S. Internal Revenue Service (IRS) allows owners to take a tax loss every year based on this depreciation over the useful life of the asset, known as the cost-recovery period. This option can reduce their taxable income by thousands of dollars each year.  

 

The plot of land on which the building rests, however, is not subject to depreciation because it is classified as a non-depreciable asset, or one that cannot lose value. This means that if an assessor values your total property at $300,000 and the land on which it sits is valued at $25,000, the property’s depreciable value starts at $275,000. The property can be devalued at a steady rate for a prescribed period of time, which, as of 2011, is 27½ years for residences and 39 years for commercial properties. In the same example, the property will depreciate at $10,000 per year until it has no value (on paper) 27½ years later. Even if the home’s assessed value has tripled during that time period, it is considered worthless to the IRS.

The catch, unfortunately, is that the depreciation amounts that you write off will reduce your original investment for the property, called the adjusted basis, thus increasing the taxable profit you must declare when you sell the property. For instance, if the owner of a property purchased for $250,000 took $200,000 in deductions by the time it was sold for $225,000, the owner would have to pay taxes on a $175,000 profit even though he took a loss on his investment. The IRS does not offer a “free lunch”; depreciation merely allows an investment property owner to pay for his meal long after he's eaten it.

Tips and Warnings for Owners of Investment Properties

• Owners should always claim the correct amount of depreciation each tax year because the IRS will assume it was taken. As a consequence, your adjusted basis in the property will be reduced in accordance with the tax credit you should have taken, even if you didn’t take it. Unclaimed depreciation may be accounted for in future tax returns, with certain limitations.
• Investment property does not begin depreciating upon its purchase or when the tenants actually take occupancy unless these dates coincide with the date that the property is rental-ready. For instance, suppose you purchase a property in April and make improvements until June, when you begin advertising it as a rental, but you are unable to sign tenants until August. According to the IRS, the depreciation period begins in June.
• Closing costs, such as inspection and appraisal fees, as well as other expenses associated with the original purchase of the house, count towards your adjusted basis in the property. Expenses incurred after the property has been rented, such as renovations and major improvements, are usually depreciated separately from the rest of the property's purchase price.
• Although you cannot depreciate land, you can depreciate landscaping and other land preparation costs incurred while preparing the land for business use.
• Your depreciation deduction for the first year is based on the mid-month convention, in which you can deduct only half of the first month’s depreciation.  If you begin renting a property on July 3rd, you can deduct 5½ months of depreciation for the first year – not the full six months that the rental was operating.
• Check with the IRS to make sure that your property qualifies as depreciable property, as personal residences that are used for less than 50% business purposes may not qualify. IRS guidelines also explain other items that may be written off as depreciable losses, from common office equipment to exotic animals.
• Hire a qualified professional to assess the value of the property before its purchase. The IRS requires a detailed assessor’s estimate of the property’s value before you can begin claiming depreciation losses on your tax return.
• Always hire The Bottom Line inspector to examine an investment property for hidden defects before it is purchased. Suppose the inspection reveals that one of the bedrooms in a three-bedroom townhome is non-conforming; you'll know in advance of the purchase that you cannot legally count on a third of your anticipated rental income without significant and costly modifications. The Bottom Line inspectors are also trained to uncover an assortment of safety and system defects, from pest infestation to the presence of lead-based paint and mold.
  

In summary, depreciation is used by taxpayers to recover the cost of investment property. The Bottom Line inspector is trained in residential and commercial property inspections which can help streamline your purchase.

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TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Warns 3 Mistakes Homebuyers Need...

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Warns 3 Mistakes Homebuyers Need...: Three Deadly Mistakes Every Home Buyer Should Avoid... Deadly Mistake #1: Thinking you can't afford it.      Many people who thought...

The Bottom Line's Warns 3 Mistakes Homebuyers Need to Avoid!

Three Deadly Mistakes Every Home Buyer Should Avoid...

Deadly Mistake #1: Thinking you can't afford it. 
  
Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own homes.  
  
Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make.  In fact, most homeowners would be broke at retirement if it wasn't for one saving grace -- the equity in their homes.  Furthermore, tax allowances favor home ownership.  Real estate values have always risen steadily.  Of course, there are peaks and valleys, but the long-term trend is a consistent increase.  This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment, the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases.  This "owe less, worth more" situation is called equity build-up and is the reason you can't afford not to buy. 
  

Even if you have little money for a down payment or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home.  It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people.  See below. 

Deadly Mistake #2: Not hiring a buyer's agent to represent you.   
Buying property is a complex and stressful task.  In fact, it is often the biggest, single investment you will make in your lifetime.  At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated.  New technology, laws, procedures, and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of competence and professionalism.  In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars.  It doesn't have to be this way! 
  
Work with a buyer's agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and the local market.  A buyer's agent has a fiduciary duty to you.  That means that he or she is loyal only to you and is obligated to look out for your best interests.  A buyer's agent can help you find the best home, the best lender, and the best home inspector in your area.  That inspector should be The Bottom Line's home inspector because The Bottom Line's inspectors are the most qualified and  best-trained inspectors in the world. Trying to buy a home without an agent or The Bottom Line's inspector is, well... unthinkable. 

  Deadly Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection. 
  
Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring The Bottom Line's inspector is almost insignificant by comparison.  As a home buyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now!  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.   
    
  
The Bottom Line's inspectors perform the best inspections, by far.  The Bottom Line's inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor...and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

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TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Home Safety for the Elderly!

TheBottomLine: The Bottom Line's Home Safety for the Elderly!:       Home Safety for the Elderly Each year, according to estimates by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), nearly 1 mi...

The Bottom Line's Home Safety for the Elderly!

      Home Safety for the Elderly

Each year, according to estimates by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), nearly 1 million people over age 65 are treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries associated with the products they live with and use everyday. The death rate from accidental injuries in the home is approximately three times greater for older people than for the younger population. Specifically, there are 60 deaths per 100,000 persons 65 and older, while there are 20 deaths per 100,000 persons under 65. 

Slips and falls are the main cause of injury for older people in the home. The CPSC recommends the use of grab-bars and non-slip mats in the bathtub, handrails on both sides of the stairs, and slip-resistant carpets and rugs. Burns occur from hot tap water and from open flame. The CPSC recommends that consumers turn down the temperature of their water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent scalds. The CPSC also recommends the installation and maintenance of at least one smoke detector on every floor of the home. Older consumers should consider purchasing nightwear that is flame-resistant and choose garments made of tightly woven fabrics, such as 100% polyester, 100% nylon or 100% wool.

 

Home Safety Checklist for Older Consumers

 

The CPSC believes that many of injuries to elderly persons in their homes result from hazards that are easy to overlook, but also easy to fix. By spotting these hazards and taking some simple steps to correct them, many injuries might be prevented. Use this checklist to spot possible safety problems which may be present in your home. Keep this checklist as a reminder of safe practices, and use it periodically to re-check your home. This checklist is organized by areas in the home. However, there are some potential hazards that need to be checked in more than just one area of your home. 

 

ALL AREAS OF THE HOME

 

In all areas of your home, check all electrical and telephone cords; rugs, runners and mats; telephone areas; smoke detectors; electrical outlets and switches; light bulbs; space heaters; woodburning stoves; and your emergency exit plan.

 

CHECK ALL CORDS

QUESTION: Are lamp, extension and telephone cords placed outside the flow of traffic? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Cords stretched across walkways may cause someone to trip. 

• Arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps and appliances without the use of extension cords.
• If you must use an extension cord, place it on the floor against a wall where people can not trip over it.
• Move the phone so that telephone cords will not lie where people walk. 
  

QUESTION: Are cords pulled out from beneath furniture and rugs or carpeting? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Furniture resting on cords can damage them, creating fire and shock hazards. Electric cords which run under carpeting may cause a fire. 

• Remove cords from under furniture or carpeting.
• Replace damaged and frayed cords. 
  

QUESTION: Are cords attached to the walls, baseboards, etc., with nails or staples? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

Nails and staples can damage cords, presenting fire and shock hazards. 

• Remove nails, staples, etc.
• Check wiring for damage.
• Use tape to attach cords to walls or floors. 
  

QUESTION: Are electrical cords in good condition, and not frayed or cracked? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION:  Damaged cords may cause a shock or fire. 

• Replace frayed or cracked cords. 

QUESTION: Do extension cords carry more than their proper load, as indicated by the ratings labeled on the cord and the appliance? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION:  Overloaded extension cords may cause fires. Standard 18-gauge extension cords can carry 1,250 watts. 

• If the rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord, change the cord to a higher-rated one, or unplug some appliances.
• If an extension cord is needed, use one having a sufficient amp or wattage rating. 
  

CHECK ALL RUGS, RUNNERS AND MATS

QUESTION: Are all small rugs and runners slip-resistant? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION:  The CPSC estimates that in 1982, over 2,500 people 65 and over were treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries that resulted from tripping over rugs and runners. Falls are also the most common cause of fatal injury for older people. 

• Remove rugs and runners that tend to slide.
• Apply double-faced adhesive carpet tape or rubber matting to the backs of rugs and runners.
• Purchase rugs with slip-resistant backing.
• Check rugs and mats periodically to see if backing needs to be replaced.
• Place rubber matting under rugs. (Rubber matting that can be cut to size is available.)
• Purchase new rugs with slip-resistant backing. 
  
  NOTE: Over time, adhesive on tape can wear away. Rugs with slip- resistant backing also become less effective as they are washed. Periodically, check rugs and mats to see if new tape or backing is needed. 
  
  

QUESTION: Are emergency numbers posted on or near the telephone? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: In case of emergency, telephone numbers for the police, fire department, and the local poison control center, along with a neighbor's number, should be readily available.

• Write the numbers in large print and tape them to the phone, or place them near the phone where they can be seen easily. 

QUESTION: Do you have access to a telephone if you fall, or experience some other emergency which prevents you from standing and reaching a wall phone? 

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:

• Have at least one telephone located where it would be accessible in the event of an accident which leaves you unable to stand.

CHECK SMOKE DETECTORS

QUESTION: Are smoke detectors properly located?

YES ___ NO___ 

RECOMMENDATION: At least one smoke detector should be placed on every floor of your home. 

• Read the instructions that come with the smoke detector for advice on the best place to install it.
• Make sure detectors are placed near bedrooms, either on the ceiling or 6 to 12 inches below the ceiling on the wall.
• Locate smoke detectors away from air vents. 

QUESTION: Do you have properly working smoke detectors? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Many fire injuries and deaths in homes are caused by smoke and toxic gases, rather than the fire itself. Smoke detectors provide an early warning and can wake you in the event of a fire. 

• Purchase a smoke detector if you do not have one.
• Check and replace batteries and bulbs according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• Vacuum the grillwork of your smoke detector periodically.
• Replace any smoke detectors which can not be repaired.

NOTE: Some fire departments or local governments will provide assistance in acquiring or installing smoke detectors. 

CHECK ELECTRICAL OUTLETS AND SWITCHES

QUESTION: Are any outlets or switches unusually warm or hot to the touch?

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION:  Unusually warm or hot outlets or switches may indicate that an unsafe wiring condition exists. 

• Unplug cords from outlets and do not use the switches.
• Have an electrician check the wiring as soon as possible. 

 

QUESTION: Do all outlets and switches have cover plates, so that no wiring is exposed? 

 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Exposed wiring presents a shock hazard.

• Add a cover plate.

 

QUESTION: Are light bulbs the appropriate size and type for the lamp or fixture?

 

 YES ___ NO ___

 

RECOMMENDATION: A bulb of too high a wattage or the wrong type may lead to fire through overheating. Ceiling fixtures, recessed lights, and "hooded" lamps will trap heat.

• Replace with a bulb of the correct type and wattage. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)

CHECK SPACE HEATERS  

QUESTION: Are heaters which come with a three-prong plug being used in a three-hole outlet or with a properly attached adapter? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: The grounding feature provided by a three-hole receptacle or an adapter for a two-hole receptacle is a safety feature designed to lessen the risk of shock. 

• Never defeat the grounding feature.
• If you do not have a three-hole outlet, use an adapter to connect the heater's three-prong plug. Make sure the adapter, ground wire or tab is attached to the outlet. 
  

QUESTION: Are small stoves and heaters placed where they cannot be knocked over, and away from furnishings and flammable materials, such as curtains and rugs?  

 

YES ___ NO ___ 

 

RECOMMENDATION: Heaters can cause fires or serious burns if they cause you to trip or if they are knocked over. 

• Relocate heaters away from passageways and flammable materials such as curtains, rugs, furniture, etc.

 

QUESTION: If your home has space heating equipment, such as a kerosene heater, a gas heater, or an LP gas heater, do you understand the installation and operating instructions thoroughly? 
  

YES ___ NO ___

 RECOMMENDATION: Unvented heaters should be used with the room door open or a window slightly open to provide ventilation. The correct fuel, as recommended by the manufacturer, should always be used. Vented heaters should have proper venting, and the venting system should be checked frequently. Improper venting is the most frequent cause of carbon monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are at particular risk.

• Review the installation and operating instructions.
• Call your local fire department if you have additional questions. 
  
  
  CHECK WOODBURNING HEATING EQUIPMENT

QUESTION: Is woodburning equipment installed properly? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Woodburning stoves should be installed by a qualified person, according to local building codes. 

• Local building code officials or fire marshals can provide requirements and recommendations for installation. 
  
  NOTE: Some insurance companies will not cover fire losses if wood stoves are not installed according to local codes. 

•                              CHECK THE EMERGENCY EXIT PLAN

QUESTION: Do you have an emergency exit plan and an alternate emergency exit plan in case of a fire? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Once a fire starts, it spreads rapidly. Since you may not have much time to get out and there may be a lot of confusion, it is important that everyone knows what to do.

• Develop an emergency exit plan.
• Choose a meeting place outside your home so you can be sure that everyone is capable of escape quickly and safely.
• Practice the plan from time to time to make sure everyone is capable of escape quickly and safely. 
  Remember periodically to re-check your home. 
  

 

KITCHEN

In the kitchen, check the range area, all electrical cords, lighting, the stool, all throw rugs and mats, and the telephone area. 

CHECK THE RANGE AREA

QUESTION: Are towels, curtains, and other things that might catch fire located away from the range? 

YES ___ NO ___  

RECOMMENDATION: Placing or storing non-cooking equipment, such as potholders, dish towels, and plastic utensils on or near the range may result in fires or burns. 

• Store flammable and combustible items away from the range and oven.
• Remove any towels hanging on oven handles. If towels hang close to a burner, change the location of the towel rack.
• If necessary, shorten or remove curtains which could brush against heat sources. 

QUESTION: Do you wear clothing with short or close-fitting sleeves while you are cooking? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: The CPSC estimates that 70% of all people who die from clothing fires are over 65 years of age. Long sleeves are more likely to catch fire than are short sleeves. Long sleeves are also more apt to catch on pot handles, overturning pots and pans and causing scalds. 

• Roll back long, loose sleeves or fasten them with pins or elastic bands while you are cooking.

 

QUESTION: Are kitchen ventilation systems or range exhausts functioning properly, and are they in use while you are cooking? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Indoor air pollutants may accumulate to unhealthful levels in a kitchen where gas or kerosene-fire appliances are in use.

• Use ventilation systems or open windows to clear air of vapors and smoke.

QUESTION: Are all extension cords and appliance cords located away from the sink and range areas? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Electrical appliances and power cords can cause shock or electrocution if they come in contact with water. Cords can also be damaged by excess heat.

• Move cords and appliances away from sink areas and hot surfaces.
• Move appliances closer to wall outlets or to different outlets so you won't need extension cords.
• If extension cords must be used, install wiring guides so that cords will not hang near sink, range, or working areas.
• Consider adding new outlets for convenience and safety; ask your electrician to install outlets equipped with ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) to protect against electric shock. A GFCI is a shock-protection device that will detect electrical fault and shut off electricity before serious injury or death occurs.

For more information on cords, refer to the beginning of the checklist. 

QUESTION: Does adequate lighting exist over the stove, sink and countertop work areas, especially where food is sliced? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Low lighting and glare can contribute to burns and cuts. Improve lighting by:

• opening curtains and blinds (unless this causes too much glare).
• using the maximum-wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage for the fixture, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
• reducing glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and partially closing the blinds or curtains.
• installing additional light fixtures under cabinets and over the countertop.

Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture.

QUESTION: Do you have a step stool which is stable and in good repair? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Standing on chairs, boxes or other makeshift items to reach high shelves can result in falls. The CPSC estimates that in 1982, 1,500 people over 65 were treated in hospital emergency rooms when they fell from chairs on which they were standing.

• If you don't have a step stool, consider buying one. Choose one with a handrail that you can hold onto while standing on the top step.
• Before climbing on any step stool, make sure it is fully opened and stable.
• Tighten screws and braces on the step stool.
• Discard step stools with broken parts.

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist. 

LIVING ROOM/FAMILY ROOM

In the living room/family room, check all rugs and runners, electrical and telephone cords, lighting, the fireplace and chimney, the telephone area, and all passageways. 

QUESTION: Are chimneys clear from accumulations of leaves, and other debris that can clog them? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: A clogged chimney can cause a poorly-burning fire to result in poisonous fumes and smoke coming back into the house. 

• Do not use the chimney until the blockage has been removed.
• Have the chimney checked and cleaned by a registered or licensed professional. 

QUESTION: Has the chimney been cleaned within the past year? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Burning wood can cause a build up of creosote inside the chimney. This tar-like material can ignite and result in a serious chimney fire. 

• Have the chimney checked and cleaned by a registered or licensed professional.

CHECK THE TELEPHONE AREA

For information on the telephone area, refer to the beginning of the checklist. 

CHECK PASSAGEWAYS

QUESTION: Are hallways, passageways between rooms, and other heavy traffic areas well lit? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Shadowed or dark areas can hide tripping hazards. 

• Use the maximum wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
• Install night lights.
• Reduce glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and by partially closing blinds and curtains.
• Consider using additional lamps or light fixtures. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture. 

QUESTION: Are exits and passageways kept clear? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION:  Furniture, boxes and other items could be an obstruction or tripping hazard, especially in the event of an emergency or fire. 

• Rearrange furniture to open passageways and walkways.
• Remove boxes and clutter.

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist. 

  BATHROOM

In the bathroom, check bathtub and shower areas, water temperature, rugs and mats, lighting, small electrical appliances, and storage areas for medications. 

CHECK BATHTUB AND SHOWER AREAS

QUESTION: Are bathtubs and showers equipped with non-skid mats, abrasive strips, or surfaces that are not slippery? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Wet, soapy tile and porcelain surfaces are especially slippery and may contribute to falls.

• Apply textured strips or appliques on the floors of tubs and showers.
• Use non-skid mats in the tub and shower, and on the bathroom floor. 

QUESTION: Do bathtubs and showers have at least one (preferably two) grab bars? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Grab bars can help you get into and out of your tub or shower, and can help prevent falls. 

• Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair, if necessary.
• Attach grab bars, through the tile, to structural supports in the wall, or install bars specifically designed to attach to the sides of the bathtub. If you are not sure how it is done, get someone who is qualified to assist you. 

QUESTION: Is the temperature 120 degrees Fahrenheit or lower? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Water temperature above 120 degrees F can cause tap water scalds. 

• Lower the setting on your hot water heater to "low" or 120 degrees. If you are unfamiliar with the controls of your water heater, ask a qualified person to adjust it for you. If your hot water system is controlled by the landlord, ask the landlord to consider lowering the setting.

NOTE: If the water heater does not have a temperature setting, you can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water at the tap. 

• Always check water temperature by hand before entering bath or shower.
• Taking baths, rather than showers, reduces the risk of a scald from suddenly changing water temperatures.

CHECK LIGHTING

QUESTION: Is a light switch located near the entrance to the bathroom? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATIONS: A light switch near the door will prevent you from walking through a dark area. 

• Install a night light. Inexpensive lights that plug into outlets are available.
• Consider replacing the existing switch with a "glow switch" that can be seen in the dark. 

CHECK SMALL ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES

QUESTION: Are small electrical appliances, such as hair dryers, shavers, curling irons, etc., unplugged when not in use? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Even an appliance that is not turned on, such as a hair dryer, can be potentially hazardous if it is left plugged in. If it falls into water in a sink or bathtub while plugged in, it could cause a lethal shock. 

• Unplug all small appliances when not in use.
• Never reach into water to retrieve an appliance that has fallen in without being sure the appliance is unplugged.
• Install a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in your bathroom outlet to protect against electric shock. 

CHECK MEDICATIONS

QUESTION: Are all medicines stored in their original containers, and are they clearly marked? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Medications that are not clearly and accurately labeled can be easily mixed up. Taking the wrong medicine, or missing a dosage of medicine you need, can be dangerous.

• Be sure that all containers are clearly marked with the contents, doctor's instructions, expiration date, and patient's name.
• Dispose of outdated medicines properly.
• Request non-child-resistant closures from your pharmacist only when you cannot use child-resistant closures.

NOTE: Many poisonings occur when children visiting grandparents go through the medicine cabinet or grandmother's purse. In homes where grandchildren or other youngsters are frequent visitors, medicines should be purchased in containers with child-resistant caps, and the caps should be properly closed after each use. Store medicines beyond the reach of children. 

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist. 

  BEDROOMS

In the bedroom, check all rugs and runners, electrical and telephone cords, and areas around beds. 

CHECK AREAS AROUND BEDS

QUESTION: Are lamps and light switches within reach of each bed? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Lamps or switches located close to each bed will enable people getting up at night to see where they are going.

• Rearrange furniture closer to switches, or move lamps closer to beds.
• Install night lights. 

QUESTION: Are ash trays, smoking materials, and other fire sources (heaters, hot plates, teapots, etc.) located away from beds and bedding? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Burns are a leading cause of accidental death among seniors. Smoking in bed is a major contributor to this problem. Among mattress and bedding fire-related deaths in a recent year, 42% were to persons 65 or older. 

• Remove sources of heatandflame from areas around beds.
• Don't smoke in bed. 

QUESTION: Is anything covering your electric blanket when in use? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Tucking in electric blankets, or placing additional coverings on top of them can cause excessive heat buildup which can start a fire. 

QUESTION: Do you avoid tucking in the sides or ends of your electric blanket? 

RECOMMENDATION:

• Use electric blankets according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• Don't allow anything to be on top of the blanket while it is in use. This includes other blankets or comforters, and even pets sleeping on top of the blanket.
• Don't set electric blankets so high that they could burn someone who falls asleep while they are on. 

QUESTION: Do you ever go to sleep with a heating pad which is turned on? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Never go to sleep with a heating pad if it is turned on because it can cause serious burns, even at relatively low settings. 

QUESTION: Is there a telephone close to your bed? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: In case of an emergency, it is important to be able to reach the telephone without getting out of bed. 

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist. 

BASEMENT/GARAGE/WORKSHOP/STORAGE AREAS

In the basement, garage, workshop, and storage areas, check lighting, fuse boxes and circuit breakers, appliances and power tools, electrical cords, and flammable liquids. 

CHECK LIGHTING

QUESTION: Are work areas, especially areas where power tools are used, well lit? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Power tools were involved in more 5,200 injuries treated in hospital emergency rooms to people 65 and over in 1982. Three-fourths of these were finger injuries. Good lighting can reduce the chance that you will accidentally cut your finger.

• Either install additional light, or avoid working with power tools in the area.

 

QUESTION: Can you turn on the lights without first having to walk through a dark area? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Basements, garages and storage areas can contain many tripping hazards and sharp and pointed tools that can make a fall even more hazardous.

• Keep an operating flashlight handy.
• Have an electrician install switches at each entrance to a dark area. 
  
   
• CHECK THE FUSE BOX OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS

QUESTION: If fuses are used, are they the correct size for the circuit?

 

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Replacing a correct-size fuse with a larger size fuse can present a serious fire hazard. If the fuse in the box is rated higher than that intended for the circuit, excessive current will be allowed to flow and possibly overload the outlet and house wiring to the point that a fire can occur.

• Be certain that correct-size fuses are used. (If you do not know the correct sizes, consider having an electrician identify and label the sizes to be used.)

NOTE: If all, or nearly all, fuses used are 30-amp fuses, there is a chance that some of the fuses are rated too high for the circuit. 

  CHECK APPLIANCES AND POWER TOOLS

QUESTION: Are power tools equipped with a three-prong plug or marked to show that they are double-insulated? 
YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: These safety features reduce the risk of an electric shock. 

• Use a properly connected three-prong adapter for connecting a three-prong plug to a two-hole receptacle.
• Consider replacing old tools that have neither a three-prong plug nor are double-insulated. 

QUESTION: Are power tools guards in place? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Power tools used with guards removed pose a serious risk of injury from sharp edges and moving parts. 

• Replace guards that have been removed from power tools.

QUESTION: Has the grounding feature on any three-prong plug been defeated by removal of the grounding pin or by improperly using an adapter? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Improperly grounded appliances can lead to electric shock.

• Check with your service person or an electrician if you are in doubt.

  CHECK FLAMMABLE AND VOLATILE LIQUIDS

QUESTION: Are containers of volatile liquids tightly capped? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: If not tightly closed, vapors may escape that may be toxic when inhaled. 

• Check containers periodically to make sure they are tightly closed.

NOTE: The CPSC has reports of several cases in which gasoline, stored as much as 10 feet from a gas water heater, exploded. Many people are unaware that gas fumes can travel that far. 

QUESTION: Are gasoline, paints, solvents and other products that give off vapors and fumes stored away from ignition sources? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Gasoline, kerosene and other flammable liquids should be stored out of living areas in properly labeled, non-glass safety containers.

• Remove these products from the areas near heat and flame such as heaters, furnaces, water heaters, ranges, and other gas appliances.

STAIRS

For all stairways, check lighting, handrails, and the condition of the steps and coverings. 

  CHECK LIGHTING

 
QUESTION: Are stairs well lit? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Stairs should be lighted so that each step, particularly the step edges, can be clearly seen while going up and down stairs. The lighting should not produce glare or shadows along the stairway. 

• Use the maximum-wattage bulb allowed by the light fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
• Reduce glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and by partially closing blinds and curtains.
• Have a qualified person add additional light fixtures. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture. 

QUESTION: Are light switches located at both the top and bottom of the stairs?

YES ___  NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Even if you are very familiar with the stairs, lighting is an important factor in preventing falls. You should be able to turn on the lights before you use the stairway from either end.

• If no other light is available, keep an operating flashlight in a convenient location at the top and bottom of the stairs.
• Install night lights at nearby outlets.
• Consider installing switches at the top and bottom of the stairs. 

QUESTION: Do the steps allow secure footing? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Worn treads and worn and loose carpeting can lead to insecure footing, resulting in slips and falls. 

• Try to avoid wearing only socks or smooth-soled shoes or slippers when using stairs.
• Make certain the carpet is firmly attached to the steps all along the stairs.
• Consider refinishing or replacing worn treads, or replacing worn carpeting.
• Paint outside steps with paint that has a rough texture, or use abrasive strips. 

QUESTION: Are the steps even and of the same size and height? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Even a small difference in step surfaces or riser heights can lead to falls. 

• Mark any steps which are especially narrow or have risers that are higher or lower than the others. Be especially careful of these steps when using the stairs.

 

QUESTION: Are the coverings on the steps in good condition? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Worn and torn coverings and nails sticking out from coverings could snag your foot and cause you to trip.

• Repair coverings.
• Remove coverings.
• Replace coverings. 

QUESTION: Can you clearly see the edges of the steps? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: Falls may occur if the edges of the steps are blurred or hard to see. 

• Paint edges of outdoor steps white to see them better at night.
• Add extra lighting.
• If you plan to carpet your stairs, avoid deep-pile carpeting, and patterned and dark-colored carpeting that can make it difficult to see the edges of the steps clearly. 

QUESTION: Is anything stored on the stairway, even temporarily? 

YES ___ NO ___ 

RECOMMENDATION: People can trip over objects left on stairs, particularly in the event of an emergency or fire.

• Remove all objects from the stairway.

 

REMEMBER PERIODICALLY TO RE-CHECK YOUR HOME.

 

 

Remember, The Bottom Line inspector can answer many of your safety-related questions during your next scheduled inspection.